What Trailing Arm ?

Old-Towd · Post by **Old-Towd** » Tue Aug 24, 2010 5:26 am

Every time I work on Freja my Baja I run in to something I didn't expect , Buggy Buddy Ed came by so we could set the rear tire toe. The owner before gas torch the spring plate's and the one on the right they cut to short -

We went down to McKenzie's and bought new Sway-a-way spring plates, got back home and they don't mach my Trailing Arms the sway-a-ways are Type 1 IRS so what the ***** do I have. Anyone seen a Trailing arm with this bolt pattern?

jsturtlebuggy · Post by **jsturtlebuggy** » Tue Aug 24, 2010 5:38 am

Jay,

The trailing arms you have are the later ones that VW used when going to the single spring plated. I think 72 and later.

The two rear bolt holes should line up with the holes on the spring plates.

Put it together with the 2 rear bolts, set alignment and then drill the extral holes.

I always like to use 4 bolts to hold the spring plates to trialing arms.

When you notch the spring plate for the lower stop make sure the corners are radius as cracks start in square corners.

Old-Towd · Post by **Old-Towd** » Tue Aug 24, 2010 5:46 am

Wow Joseph your the Man , thanks for the Info. I didn't think about radius the corners and I will add bolts.

Lee-Hoffer · Post by **Lee-Hoffer** » Tue Aug 24, 2010 5:59 pm

I had to clearance the SAW spring plates in a number of locations. Aside from notching for the lower stop like Joseph mentioned, I also had to take material away from the corners at the end with the bolt holes (try mounting a trailing arm on there and sliding it all the way forward - the corners will hit the arm before all of the adjustment in the slots is used up), and I also had to take a little material away from the top of one of the plates where it would hit the inside of the torsion housing when the plate was move to its highest position. One side needed it, the other did not. That's how it goes with castings. Just put the inner bushings on the plates and hold them in the housing (torsion bars removed) so you can move them throughout their travel. Any spots that need clearancing will become evident.

Joseph, thanks for reminding me that I should add a fourth bolt to each assembly. Not only will it be stronger, it will keep things from moving out of adjustment.

Old-Towd · Post by **Old-Towd** » Wed Aug 25, 2010 4:57 am

Thanks Lee all kinds of good Info. Will I went ahead and made the other slotted hole in my spring plate -

Then I was going to cut the notch in the bottom of the spring plate for more travel till I put the old one back in place and Man it's not Hardly using the cut out, so I won't cut my new ones .

Now I'm having a real hard time trying to get the spring plate back up on the perch, it has big sway-a-way torsion bars - I have the car chained to the jack but man it's strong. The jack want's to tip over maybe if I lower the car so the jack not so extended.

jsturtlebuggy · Post by **jsturtlebuggy** » Wed Aug 25, 2010 5:16 pm

Jay,

SwayAway spring plates are wider across than stock spring plates.

I trying to remember without going out an measuring one. I think it almost 1/2in. Without notching the plate top and bottom for the stops you will not get even stock wheel travel.

As for installing the spring plate. the tool that is sold for doing it is well worth it. Can keep you from going to the emergency room or ?

I ran 28mm torsion bars in my baja with gear reductions and it was way too stiff. I don't know what you using but I find most people seem to run to large a torsion bar for play car.

With stock length trailing arms and short torsion bars, 25 or 26mm should more than enough.

The older I get the softer the ride I want.