Manxter Hardtop Latch

GotManx · Post by **GotManx** » Tue May 14, 2013 5:55 pm

Here is a simple additional latch system that I added to the Manxter's hardtop.

It is a Double Point Remote Release Cable Latch, part# 3985A42 - 3ft. length, from McMaster-Carr: http://www.mcmaster.com/#cable-latches/=mqy33q. The locking clamps are just billet brake line clamps for 1 1/2" tubing (Dan's Performance part# 14-611112-1.5 http://www.dansperformanceparts.com/buggy/bilaa/buggybilaa1.htm) on the roll cage that have been drill out to 3/8" for the cable release pins.

The latch handle is mounted flush with 1/4" flat head bolts countersunk into the existing Manxter aluminum latch piece. The rear cable pins mount to the fiberglass top and the billet clamps just clamp to the roll cage.

With the additional latch system, the top is very solid now. I do get just a little bit of a rattle in the pins to the billet clamps when off roading, but I am going to try some nylon sleeves to see if that will help.

DIESELDOOG · Post by **DIESELDOOG** » Tue May 14, 2013 6:45 pm

Jon,

Very good idea.

With an bit of adapting it would also work on the KickOut hatch.

jsturtlebuggy · Post by **jsturtlebuggy** » Tue May 14, 2013 7:50 pm

Thanks Jon for posting the picture of your roof latch setup. I really liked it when I saw it at the Tahoe run.
It clean and simple, I like it better then what I came up to hold my top down.
Has Bruce seen it? I talk to him about it in when I was there in March about your setup.

dcamomanx · Post by **dcamomanx** » Tue May 14, 2013 10:14 pm

I like the idea also. The only thing I would mention is that on our manxter if an adult ( let's say 5'6" my height) sits in the rear seat their head/my head is right by the rear roll bar, possibly hitting the bracket. On a dual sport is should be fine. Joseph I still like the way yours/ours is set up. I'll try and see if I have any pics

Doran

GotManx · Post by **GotManx** » Wed May 15, 2013 7:20 pm

You are correct Doran, the rear headroom could be an issue. The kids are getting bigger, but they would rather not ride in the back:

Scott-Drolet · Post by **Scott-Drolet** » Tue May 21, 2013 3:59 pm

Very clean Jon. Really ingenious . . . McMaster-Carr and Dan's: Here I come!

Scott

jsturtlebuggy · Post by **jsturtlebuggy** » Sat May 25, 2013 9:05 pm

This my roof latch setup I made to keep the roof in place when closed.
A cabinet latch was used to move the rods back and forth. The latch as a 1in throw, with a 3/8in square drive hole in center. A piece of 3/8in square stock was used, threaded on both ends for knob and nut holding it together on other end. The bracket part holding the latch to cage uses a piece of 1 1/2in angle with two EMPI #17-2732 Billet brackets. These brackets along with the ones end for holding rods in place are narrow to be able to clear roof when closed.
The rods are 3/8in round stock flatten on ends to attach to latch.
Pieces of .125" scrape aluminum were fab to make piece to hold rods at out ends.
Plastic bushings from ACE Hardware were use to keep wear a minimum on rods and aluminum.

Scott-Drolet · Post by **Scott-Drolet** » Sun May 26, 2013 2:51 pm

I've gotta say you are really a craftsman Joseph. Not only is it well thought out, you pretty much built all the parts from scratch. I'm still trying to copy your heater installation! Nice work, as usual!

jsturtlebuggy · Post by **jsturtlebuggy** » Mon May 27, 2013 4:23 pm

Thank you Scott for the compliment.
One thing I should have done with the brackets for the rods to go through that bolt to the roof, would be to turn them around so bolts and nut were on outside. It would have eliminated the clearance problem I have with the brackets that are mounted to cage. In the pictures you can see I had to trim the aluminum angle pieces to clear for the bolts when roof is closed.

Scott-Drolet · Post by **Scott-Drolet** » Mon Jun 03, 2013 6:42 pm

I've got all the parts gathered together to copy Jon's installation (only because I'm not skilled enough to copy your setup, Joseph) with the exception of the billet brake line mounts from Dan's Performance, which should be here this week.

I've been driving the Manxter a lot, and I've started to hone in on it's idosyncracies. One thing is there's a metal plate that the fuse box in the trunk snaps into via an interference fit. Sometime in the few hundred miles I've driven it, it came loose and, while it looked fine, there were times the copper fuse holder hit this mounting plate and sparked. It was causing all sorts of odd events, like the car refusing to turn off with the key. I've since removed it and am using it as a pattern to make a Lexan equivalent. Also, since the car had been sitting for years, after running four tanks of gas through it, I've installed a new fuel filter, some injector cleaner, and a new air cleaner. It's running better, but still hesitates and sometimes stalls at idle. Taking Tom Iacoboni's advice, I dropped it off at Outfront Motorsports this morning to have them tune it on their dyno. While the engine was built there, they ship the engines and EMS module with a generic "close enough" program and have never worked on the car. They think they can really dial it in today. So, I can't wait to see how it runs when it comes back.

The Manxter and I will be at the VW Classic this weekend. Hope to see you there Joseph!

73SpeedBuggy · Post by **73SpeedBuggy** » Mon Jun 03, 2013 6:59 pm

Scott Drolet wrote:I've got all the parts gathered together to copy Jon's installation (only because I'm not skilled enough to copy your setup, Joseph) with the exception of the billet brake line mounts from Dan's Performance, which should be here this week.

I've been driving the Manxter a lot, and I've started to hone in on it's idosyncracies. One thing is there's a metal plate that the fuse box in the trunk snaps into via an interference fit. Sometime in the few hundred miles I've driven it, it came loose and, while it looked fine, there were times the copper fuse holder hit this mounting plate and sparked. It was causing all sorts of odd events, like the car refusing to turn off with the key. I've since removed it and am using it as a pattern to make a Lexan equivalent. Also, since the car had been sitting for years, after running four tanks of gas through it, I've installed a new fuel filter, some injector cleaner, and a new air cleaner. It's running better, but still hesitates and sometimes stalls at idle. Taking Tom Iacoboni's advice, I dropped it off at Outfront Motorsports this morning to have them tune it on their dyno. While the enigne was built there, they ship the engines and EMS module with a generic "close enoguh" program and have never worked on the car. They think they can really dial it in today. So, I can't wait to see how it runs when it comes back.

The Manxter and I will be at the VW Classic this weekend. Hope to see you there Joseph!

Man that's gotta be nice.. I have about 13 states in the way of making that happen with min.

Tom-Kathleen · Post by **Tom-Kathleen** » Mon Jun 03, 2013 8:20 pm

Good call to take it back to the source, Scott. They can look for any other problem issues while they tune it. They could also steal our cold start program if it is not in there. Tom

Scott-Drolet · Post by **Scott-Drolet** » Mon Jun 03, 2013 11:57 pm

Hi Adam! It was seeing your Orange Manxter at MOTB during the lunch stop at the taco place last year that got me started on the path of finding one. I love those Nitto tires you have on the back. I'm in the process now of trying to come up with a taller tire and smaller diameter wheel than the 295/40ZR20's I have on mine. I need some tire sidewall to get a better ride out of it, but with the same width and rolling diameter. It looks like that can ALMOST be achieved with a 17" wheel and a Dunlop SP Sport 5000 275/55R17. Not quite as beefy as your 305/45ZR18, which are the same diameter, but your tires are 10" wide and these new ones will be a little over 9" wide. It won't look quite as nice as it does now, but the sidewalls aired down will give it a really nice ride for the drive out there.

You know, I guess I kind of take it for granted being so close to a lot of the industry shops out here. I have to say I got a great first impression from Outfront Motorsports when I visited them this morning. The engines, cars and parts I saw there were top notch stuff, and everyone is really helpful. You can tell this is more than a business for them, they live it.

Hey Tom, they mentioned something about an idle program update, so they must be talking about yours! I'll let you know what I come back with. BTW, McMaster-Carr delivered a box with the adhesive-backed foam for the dashboard fix you suggested and I also isolated one rather large rattle down to the wiper motor installation. A few quick adjustments and it's getting quieter all the time. As usual, thanks for steering me in the right direction.

Scott-Drolet · Post by **Scott-Drolet** » Wed Jun 05, 2013 4:34 pm

Update! John at OutFront did a tremendous job tuning the Manxter. He said the fuel mix was too lean at low RPM's and way rich at cruising RPMs. The second cam was coming on at the mid-3000 RPM range instead of the mid-2000 RPM range, plus a couple more minor things I've forgotten.

But, MAN! It's like driving a different car altogther! It's well mannered at low RPM and I no longer have to goose it to get the RPMS up before taking off from a dead start. It's smooth through the entire power range, and it jumps hard if you punch it. My only problem now is that I run out of gear at the top end, so it would be nice to have lower RPMs at freeway crusing speed. I'm trying to save up enough money to get the SubaruGears five-speed in before the Sea-to-Sea Safari, but I doubt I'll be able to afford it, especially considering the costs of the trip itself.

Overall, I feel like the car is really getting dialed in and I couldn't be happier with the work Outfront did . . . Seriously, for $250- I have an absolutely perfect running buggy. I can recall spending more than that every year just to get the jets dialed in on a pair of Weber Carbs! THANK YOU John Rykowski and Outfront.

73SpeedBuggy · Post by **73SpeedBuggy** » Thu Jun 06, 2013 3:34 pm

Scott Drolet wrote:Hi Adam! It was seeing your Orange Manxter at MOTB during the lunch stop at the taco place last year that got me started on the path of finding one. I love those Nitto tires you have on the back. I'm in the process now of trying to come up with a taller tire and smaller diameter wheel than the 295/40ZR20's I have on mine. I need some tire sidewall to get a better ride out of it, but with the same width and rolling diameter. It looks like that can ALMOST be achieved with a 17" wheel and a Dunlop SP Sport 5000 275/55R17. Not quite as beefy as your 305/45ZR18, which are the same diameter, but your tires are 10" wide and these new ones will be a little over 9" wide. It won't look quite as nice as it does now, but the sidewalls aired down will give it a really nice ride for the drive out there.

I actually dropped down to 295/45/18 in the rear as I wanted to get away from the drag radials (which were shot after about 8500 miles). I couldn't find anything BUT the drag radials in that exact size.