Low budget 1600????
storker crank/ rods.????? what happened to this $1000 buget here ????? You just sent that 1000 right there. you may get a crank/ rods from 500 to 750, but then you,ll have go up on the cam/ lifters, cyl shims, push rods, rocker arms. Plus case work, So now we are in the HI budget area. You don't just add a storker crank or I should say one thats over a 78 mm with out adding a bunch of other parts. The engine gets wider and the stock part no longer fit
A 1914cc, 69mm stroke x 94mm cylinders, when properly built and carburated will make you practically untouchable stoplite to stoplite. Granted a bigger engine will be even more untouchable My Manx with a 1914 has run 12.51 in the 1/4 mile, it's very streetable and gets 24 mpg on the highway but there is no way it can be built for $1000.
Hi Michael. If you go to http://www.banditbuggies.com, then go to the "Tips & Tricks" area, you will find an article on building a hi performance type 1 engine. Lots of good info. I have a 1914 with a counterweighed crank, lightened flywheel, vw rods, stock dual port heads, single Zenith 32 carb, 009 distributor, the clubs side winder exhaust, also I run the stock doghouse cooler. I have run this homebuit motor for 3 1/2 years now with no problems, and find it to be plenty powerful, even for duning. For a while, I ran a Holley bugspray, and that really made the buggy scream, however, the throttle shaft was so worn out, that it would not idle properly.
