engine issues
I agree with Lee. It is all about the ring and pinion. Sand will take the punch out of any motor especially if you have agressive paddle tires. That is why people often cut some of the paddles off, so the motor has a chance to spool up. The cheapest way to test this theory is to put some smaller diameter tires on and go for a ride. If you find a happy combo, do the math. When I went to a larger paddle on the sand I lost the ability to use second gear on the larger steeper dunes, but I just hold the throttle down until the valve float anyway..
There is something wrong with the engine or the ring and pinion in the transaxle is some unreal ratio that is not standard VW issue. I have a Berrien Nostalgia buggy with a 1914 running 1300+ STU paddles with a comp cut, 3.88:1 R&P and it will pull all but the largest dunes in 3rd gear with 2 people in it. It has no problem hitting 75mph in the sand.
I don't know how to compare dunes, have not been to glamis in a while.... Whinchester Bay , Oregon and St Anthony , Idaho seem to be the closest to sand stacking veritcal that I have ever seen. I would be impressed to see anything top some of those hills in 3rd gear. Matching gearing, tires , and available power can save a butload of money if you do it right . Or get lucky.
It has not hit the sand yet , i am talking about the black top... I do have a lightened flywheel. 12lb the heads are 42mm and 37.5 with a trimill 1 5/8 along with swivel push rods and auto craft rockers not sure about the rest? The idle jet is 50 and the main jet is 135 not sure yet about the corrective air jet. I will look into it. the heads are stamped with 53cc and the builders name. also the intake was oval ported and polished I have seen this much. the intake to the carbs are machined to match the heads. the person who built this was serous i believe. I was told by the seller it was a 2275 geneburg . the front has gene burg on it on the oil plate. I was told it was to much power for his wife and she wanted a smaller engine.. I know where his business is and there were 2 great buggies in there so i don't think he was lying about it. I don't believe that the carbs came from this motor. i think he pulled the off and put on a different set. he told me they were 48 ida and the nuts were loose on the carbs.
ok i pulled everything out . idle jet 50 main 135 corrective are is 155 ventures f11 and 36mm something? book says 60 idle 160 main 200 air C and f11 sounds correct? I took it out today blasted up to 75 in 3 gear. hit 4th and nothing some times hitting 80 ish. but basically nothing it will hold it there and does not like it at full throttle in 4th
[QUOTE="UncleBob"]0-60 in 9 seconds? Can't pull over 3500 rpms in 4th gear? 2275cc? You sure both throttles are 100 open at WOT? Even a stock valved, mild cammed, poorly jetted 2275 should spin to the point of destruction in a lightweight buggy on the street.[/QUOTE] thank you bob you make me feel better... it can spin the tires well . better than my ford in water. is 9 sec slow?
thank you lee i may have to try that. i could sell the trans too and get another kind for my taller tires SWING PRO STREET TRANSMISSION GEAR BOX, 412 RING & PINION, SUPER DIFF, ALUMINUM SIDE PLATE, WELDED GEAR HUBS, CHROMOLY PINION RETAINERS, AND HARDEND KEYS also does anyone have any jets for the 44idf they wish to get rid of. for a price i know.....
I'm fitting a 2276 to my tube framed buggy and i will be very surprised if the 0-60 time is around 9 secs. I was running 28 inch rear tyres with a 1641/stock trans on my last buggy and it would easily top 80mph in 4th. You either need to get your buggy on a rolling road, get the engine dyno'd or have a third party check out the engine. It sounds to me like it is losing a fair bit of power somewhere, but i could not point you in the right direction unfortunately. Don't sell your trans until you know for sure it is the ratios that are the cause of the problem. I would go over to the Shop Talk Forums and ask the 'engine guys' for their advice. As for fitting a turbo, you will need to strip the motor and change the 'cam' for one suitable in a turbo'd VW. If you are going to spend 3500 upgrading your engine then i would definitely recommend a rebuild for peace of mind. If it is all good quality parts that are fitted to the engine with low miles, then the rebuild cost should be minimal. Good luck. Richie
I think the getting it dynoed is a great idea, will answer a lot of questions. Man I love this thread. Lately it seems there has been very little to catch everyones interest, this thread seems to be doing that. It would be fun to hear what others are running, how they use it, and how happy they are with it.
As a guessing man I would bet it's the carb as Bob suggested or in the gearing. My engine is no where near your power and it will run 82 in 4th. As least thats what the speedo said. I know I had to be close to 82 because turning the wheel had no affect. :driving: 
However 9 seconds is out of my reach.
However 9 seconds is out of my reach. update. I just installed new jets. 55 idle 155 main and 200 correction air.. ran ok was rich on low end . Replaced the 55 idle with the 50 idles and idled perfect. and runs stronger.. I think.... hit 80 in 3rd was 75 in 3rd4th is still a dog at 3000 or higher. will hold 75 to 80 if it is flat land. also my old jets were mixed matched both carbs has a 130 main jet and a 135 main jet in them. one had a 145 air correction and the rest were 155. it was mixed up . not sure why ?
[QUOTE="seabeeBuggy"]update. I just installed new jets. 55 idle 155 main and 200 correction air.. ran ok was rich on low end . Replaced the 55 idle with the 50 idles and idled perfect. and runs stronger.. I think.... hit 80 in 3rd was 75 in 3rd4th is still a dog at 3000 or higher. will hold 75 to 80 if it is flat land. also my old jets were mixed matched both carbs has a 130 main jet and a 135 main jet in them. one had a 145 air correction and the rest were 155. it was mixed up . not sure why ?[/QUOTE] There is definitely something wrong.
You either need to get the engine checked by a reputable VW engine builder. Or have it on a dyno or rolling road. Like i said in my other post, if my 2276 that's going in my tube framed buggy is putting out roughly the same figures that you are giving then i will be extremely dissapointed.
This is the buggy it's going into. 
You either need to get the engine checked by a reputable VW engine builder. Or have it on a dyno or rolling road. Like i said in my other post, if my 2276 that's going in my tube framed buggy is putting out roughly the same figures that you are giving then i will be extremely dissapointed. This is the buggy it's going into. Still, have you verified throttle plates are vertical when you've got the pedal down? Have you had someone hold the pedal down while you check? I still think somethings up there. The 2275 should have no problems pulling past 3000rpms even with the bigger tires. My wimpy 2180 is doing near 80 in under 9 seconds, and won't stop until I pull my foot out of it. I have same size valves, C-95 cam. My tires are a bit shorter (maybe 29" tall), but I had huge BFG Drag Radials that were 32" tall and 18" wide under my last buggy with this same engine, and still had no issues in 4th. Putting smaller tires on the buggy would only mask the problem I think. The dyno will tell the tale for sure.