Manx Club

Hey everybody, Right now I'm running dual 44 IDF Webers with Uni oiled filters and filter wraps and CB hex linkage. It seems everytime I go out I get something in my idle jets. I've ordered Jet Doctors from CB Performance which should get here this week, and also some small air boxes that mount on top of the carbs and allow remote mounting of the air cleaners. I'm thinking about possibly using a centrifugal filter, or dual round aluminum filters that have two levels of mesh filters in them may keep the air cleaner. Anybody feel strongly one way or the other about either option? Or, would you suggest something completely different? Thanks for any help you can offer.

Scott, I have the same problem you do, Idle jets cloging and the buggy just runs like poop. Ive tried evrything except the Jet Dr. The problem with the cans on your carbs is there is no room for the velocity stacks, which are important in straighting the air out going thru the venturies. What size of idle jets are you using? I found 45s plug up alot more than 50s do. What size is your motor and what size of venturies are you using. I was also told that you need to use white grase to seal around the air filter plates. Grease is your friend. Im going back to a single 44 on the manxter just be cause of this issue. It will get the carb up out of the dirt from the tires, I think. I put a single 40 idf on the yellow manx for Mojave and I was impressed with the performance of one carb instead of two.

We are running a Weber IDF 40 with 1 1/2" velocity stacks, an oiled filter element, covered by an outerwear filter. I then wrap that with a foam filter that is also oiled on the inside. Before we used the final oiled foam filter, my main filter element would load up with dust on each day's run (even through the outerwear - which is really made to prevent large particles like sand from getting through). I would have to clean it or replace it before the next day's run. Now that I run the oiled foam cover, almost no loading, and I can go an entire weekend without needing to clean it out. It all works like a 3-stage filter. Now, to the clogged idle jet issue. I too run the Jet Doctors. Great product. But something to consider, the debris clogging the idle jets may not be from incomming air. It could be small debris in the fuel. I run two of the disposable fuel filters. One before the fuel pump, and a second between the fuel pump and the carb. This has greatly reduced the amount of debris clogging the idle jets. It's a simple, and cost effective fix. Others also run some of the more expensive canister fuel filters with good results. Give it a try. Be careful sealing with grease. Some grease can be partially disolved by the vaporized fuel and end up clogging the emulsion tube.

I've had similar problems with my Webers until I took many of the steps suggested here. Here are few more items. Check all of the small 0 Ring Gaskets on your carburetors for freshness. I found some old crusty 0 Rings on my carburetors. Also, please take off the top off the carburetors and check to see what type of gasket you have over the fuel bowls. If you have the old skeleton style gasket, replace it with the newer style gasket that covers the top of the fuel bowls. I believe the new gaskets help to keep the dirt out and the gasoline in. With the top of the fuel bowl covered, the gasoline has less chance of spilling out and flooding the engine when you hit rough uphill terrain. It made a vast improvement when I changed the gaskets on my carbs. I don't know if this applies to your situation but when your buggy isn't used for long periods of time and the gasoline in the carburetors evaporates, it leaves a white residue inside that can cause problems when small pieces break loose. Check for this when you pull the tops off of the carburetors. Use Chevron (Techron) Gas. It has a reputation for dissolving residue in fuel systems. I had a fuel gauge float in my Explorer that was slow to respond when I filled the tank. It might take hours for it to move the gauge to the full mark. A Ford Tech told me to use a few tanks of Chevron gas. It dissolves the residue which slows the movement of the fuel gauge float. I did it and it worked. If I don't use Chevron gas, the gauge float slows down until I put more Chevron in the tank. It must be a conspiracy between Ford and Chevron. I'm told Texaco also has Techron in their gas. Good Luck

WOW! What a lot of great information. Thanks to all of you for helping me sort this out. Bill - The two Uni filter setup you describe is exactly what I'm using now. It's partially effective, but I'm hopeful after hearing you're using Jet doctors. I'll add the jet doctors this weekend before using the CB Performance air boxes and a remote mount cleaner. I sure hope I get the same results. Bob - The new air boxes allow for a special velocity stack that measure 1" tall. I've included a link to the catalog description and a photo at the end of this email. I'm enbarrassed to admit I don't remember my jet sizes, but I'll find out this weekend while I'm adding the jet doctors and let you know. I do know it's running rich right now, so a change is probably warranted. Mike - Good point about fuel filters. I saw a really nice canister style one on Greg Lewin's green tow'd up at Tahoe. It was made by AC Filter and I think he said he got it at the local Napa near his home in Simi Valley. I'll check with my local store and see if I can get one. The plastic ones leave a lot to be desired. I do grease the bottom of the Uni filters and wondered what happens with that grease once the air starts flowing through there. One thing I did do was change to the CB linkage plates which have a tight seal at the top and bottom where the cleaner rests. I may just forego the grease next time. I also liek the outerwear addition and a lesser amount of oil on the filter elements. Right now, My filters are a mess at the end of the day and have to be cleaned and changed every trip. Ed - I DO have the old skeleton type gaskets, and after doing an online search, see what you're talking about regarding covering the fuekl bowls. I'll switch them out while I'm adding the jet doctors. Thanks for the advice everybody . . .I'm really looking forward to getting these fuel issues sorted out. I love my car when it's running right, and I figure to keep it that way I just need to figure out how to make sure those jets stay open. Here's a link to the CB performance air boxes (The air boxes and the velocity stacks are what I bought, not the entire system): http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=563

When you install the Jet Doctor's, it would be a good idea to go ahead and tear down the rest of the carb so you can clean it and adjust the float. I'm sure there is a ton of junk in there, even if it is new out of the box. Here are a couple of useful web sites. One is the CB site showing how to install the Jet Doctors (better than the photocopy installation instructions you will get with the product). http://www.cbperformance.com/weberjetdoctor.html The other is a Weber Carb site with all sorts of useful info. The settings they suggest are for larger displacement engines, but it is a great starting point. http://www.racetep.com/webtechpage.html Just make sure you have the matching aluminium base plate for the CB air boxes. The flimsy press metal plates are notorious for leaking air and debris. I didn't want to cut a hole in my rear deck, so I just went with a 4" x 7" oval air filter sitting right on top of the carb instead of the covered air box. Obviously each application is different.

Thanks for the info Mike. Yes I do have the CB bottom plate and linkage, which pair up nicely with the new air boxes. I'll look at the CB site too, to see what lies ahead. Thanks for the help! Scott