Manx Club

Anyone know of a good article or book about valve ajustment and how to get the correct settings? :help:

Any good VW repair manual. Try, "HOW TO KEEP YOUR VOLKSWAGEN ALIVE" A step by step procedures for the complete IDIOT, by John Muir My copy, dated 1980, cost $ 9.00. It solves a lot of problems. :2cents: Jimbo

aircooled.net has great tech section, it works for me,

Here's a good online article: http://type2.com/bartnik/valveadj.htm One thing I do differently is I use high temp RTV to glue the valve cover gaskets to the valve covers, but NOT to the heads. I don't replace the gaskets every time I adjust the valves, I just replace them if they don't look good. I have had the same gaskets on my engine for three years so far with NO leaks. I also have another step I do before checking the valves. I check the rocker stud nuts to make sure they are tight. It only takes a second, and it could save you some headaches down the road.

Back in the early 60s when I had my first Beetle, a 58, my factory trained mechanic said that the exhaust tappets should be to adjusted 2 thou more than the recommended amount. That is 6 thou inlets, 8 thou exhaust. He said that the tappets will be a little noisy by the exhaust valves would never burn out. He said that having quiet tappets made it impossible to hear if one of the exhaust valves was burning out. If an exhaust valve starts to burn out its tappet will go quiet and warn you of the problem before it's too late. He also said that the metal in the valve adjusters is very strong so do up the adjuster nut really tight and it will not come loose. I almost never have to adjust my tappets because they check out O.K. I have done that to every Beetle engine that I have owned and so far he has been right. :2cents:

Great information guys. Thanks to everyone for the fast response. Guess I know what I an doing today.

Be aware that engines running aluminum pushrods (stock) run more lash then steel/chromoly pushrods. I run my valve lash with chromoly pushrods at 0.00 lash.