Resurfacing GRP/Resto work?

[mel hubbard]

Great product to share with you guys > Duratec, Surface Primer/ hi-build, hi-gloss & pigmented clear systems. Ive only used the surface primer (for the first time today) & not the pigmented clear. Maybe some of you guys use it already, its mainly used for GRP plugwork & gel-coat resurfacing and uses the same catalyst (MEKP @ 2%) as used in fiberglass lay up. Ive used a similar UK product in the past, but will stick with the Duratec from now on. After doing any repairs with bondo (filler) coat it with this stuff (or even the whole car) it fills the pin holes & will even fill 40 grit scratches, once coated the finish paintwork will not sink through into the bondo repairs like with some primers. Its VERY tough,, you can even wax the primer & mold off it within a few hours of spraying it. Guys on here in the past have spoke of re-gelcoating their buggy,, I take it they must use the Duratec pigmented clear,, I guess that must be like the UK clear coat product that I used a few years ago,,, you pigment it as you would with nomal spray gel-coat but its a lot thinner and uses a normal car paint gun to spray it, just like the surface primer. Duratec >> Distributed by Hawkeye Industries Georgia USA.... Tel > 909 546 1160 Hope that info is useful to anyone doing DIY resto work on their buggy.

[CairoManx]

That's exactly what I needed to find out. I'm restoring a Towd body with over 220 extra holes drilled in it. I'm filling them with short strand reinforced fiberglass filler but I needed advice on how to get a good smooth and tough finish.

[mel hubbard]

Nelson, glad to be of help. Another couple of tips > The strongest Bondo (filler) is Talc mixed with fiberglass resin,,, its harder to sand than automotive bondo but is far stronger and more waterproof. Talc in UK is around ?7 per 25 KG,, you mix the catalyst with the resin first (so they say,, but I've mixed it in after without any probs) then add the talc,, it takes longer to go off than bondo, but when cured its much tougher than any bondo you can buy,,,,,,,,,,, can be mixed to your own viscosity too. Its hard to judge when you first use this stuff,,,,,,,seem to always end up mixing far too much,,,,,, just a coffee cup of resin soaks up one hell of a lot of talk,, much more than you would think. You can also use Chopped Strands,, another inexpensive product,,,, Same stuff used in the making of all fiberglass products,,,,, approx 6mm long,,,, mix the chopped strands into resin to make a dough like mixture which is also VERY strong,, but for the smooth finish you need the bondo mix on top. Both of the above products can be bought in a tame form from the automotive shops,, but trust me guys,, if you want the tough stuff,, then make it yourself,, could work out cheaper too :rock:

[monocoque]

I have used Resin mixed with milled fiber. I premix the fiber in with the resin and then add the MEKP. The big thing is to chamfer your holes prior to filling them. If you simply plop the stuff in the hole, it will start to crack or pop out in a few years. Remember, regardless of the resin you use (or bondo), it will shrink at a different rate than the rest of the car. Consider that most bodies(and Towd bodies) are almost 40 years old. The body has shrunk. Now, attach new bondo or resin. It WILL shrink, and faster than the rest of the car since it is much fresher. As far as Duratec, I have used Slick Sand, and another product called OMNI polyester primer. They are thick, high build primers that offer similar qualities to the Duratec (so it sounds). Since it is so thick, I cut it with about 10-15% Styrene monomer. That acts like a reducer and makes the material much friendlier to shoot. Since the product is catalyzed, it cures relatively quickly (faster on hot days). Remember too that the faster something cures, the more brittle it can become so do not mix your resins too hot. The drawback to the SS and Omni is that it is a primer and as such requires a top coat. That is where the benefit of Duratec comes in. I top coated my cars Towd with a single stage urethane and I think that it is acceptable considering I did not have a professional paint booth to use. Chris