A Couple Tips to Share

[Don Giovanoni]

I thought I would share a couple tips FWIW: Before adjusting the valves, I roll the rear tire of the Manx up on a 2x4, first on the passenger (cyl 1&2) side. That way the motor is tipped a little and oil doesn't run out when the valve cover is removed. Just reverse for 3&4. Reduces the oily mess. If you are running Manx or other cast valve covers without a countersink on the bolt holes, throw the O rings away. I first got some StatOSeals from a racing supply house for the bolts. These are metal gaskets with rubber inserts. I later found out that Scat sells them at the local VW shop in sets of 4 which were less expensive. After installing these there is no leaks at all around the bolts - in fact I have reused the same ones a couple times after adjusting the valves. The original O rings/washers that came with the valve covers always tore, leaked and made a mess. Hope these simple tips help someone.

[167luckycharm]

My habit is to set the rotor at the #4 spark first. So the 2x4 would be under the driver side rear tire when you start the job. Pop off the valve cover and adjust the #4 valves. Rotate the engine clockwise (normal rotation) so the TDC marks (on a degree pulley) is straight up and the rotor points to the #3 position. Adjust the #3 valves. Clean off the head surface where the gasket fits against. Use carb cleaner or brakekleen on a lint-free cloth and wipe the oil off. Watch for pieces of gasket material or silicone that may be stuck on tight...gotta be clean. If the gaskets are to be replaced, now's the best time to it. Those chrome valve covers are too slippery for the gasket sealer to grab onto, unless the sealing areas are scuffed-up first. I've tried Gascacinch with mixed results. If using hi-temp silicone, only smear a thin layer on the cork gasket. Avoid creating globs or stringy-looking beads that may peel off and get into the oil system. After the valve cover is back on, roll the tire off the 2x4 and switch it to the passenger side, and roll the car back onto the 2x4. Still in neutral and handbrake set again, rotate the pulley clockwise so the rotor points to the #2 (TDC on the pulley is straight down) . You can take a break and have something to drink while the oil transfers over to the driver side. Alright, put down the beer and get to work. Pop off the valve cover. If you changed the driver side you might as well change this side too. Peel off the gasket and do what you did earlier. While waiting for the sealer to dry, adjust the #2 valves. Rotate the engine to the #1 spark plug and adjust the #1 valves. You'll notice that you just adjusted the valves in this order 4,3,2,1...and the job meant only having one valve cover off at a time. Since you're at the #1 spark (TDC straight up), it's a good time to check your static timing. But that's after another beer if you're thirsty, and another thread since I'm getting thirsty now. Good luck! John

[Don Giovanoni]

John's description just does it in reverse of what I do - I do it 1-2-3-4, turning the crank counterclockwise 180 degrees in between. Instead of pulling the distributor cap I bring the engine to TDC and check the rockers on #1 - if they are not both loose rotate the engine back around to TDC, then #1 should be ready to adjust. For the valve cover gaskets, I like to use Permatex Avaiation Sealer (same as used on case halves) between the gasket and the valve cover. When installing the valve cover I oil the gasket on the head side. I usually can get a couple adjustments using the same good quality gaskets. When it is time to replace the gaskets lacquer thinner cleans the sealer from the valve cover very easily, just wipe with a paper towel. Just proves there is many ways of doing the same thing. FWIW,