Manx Club

I bought my Tow'd in April. We are just now getting around to do anything on it. I bought it with no motor, however the last motor it had was a Corvair.
It was a swing axle car, I'm currently working on swapping over to IRS.
This will be a SLOW build.....
My 1st question centers around the rear suspension swap.
I'm guessing the "tunnel" should sit level? I noticed that the "L" brackets that fasten the rear suspension to the frame help to locate the tilt of the tunnel. It makes sense to me to level, however I have not found anything concrete.
Thanks,
David

Hello David,

It looks like you've found a nice unmolested Tow'd. The frame horn angle is determined by the tabs that go from the
frame to the upper shock mounts. The frame horns do not sit completely level they do tilt up a little.

Greg

David,

I mocked everything up first. Get the trans and engine in then set the angle and build the brackets. If you are using a doghouse cooler you want to make sure it clears the body and fenders. Tilting the engine up helps offroad.

Once you set the angle think about adding a support bar from the frame to the trans mount to help support the engine.

Keep us posted

Doran

Does any body know if I can mount 1" longer arms and still use my Tow'ds rear fenders?
Thanks

Dave it shouldn't be a problem, we run 235 75R 15 Wrangler Radials with stock type 1 arms and have 5" of clearance from the tire to the rear fender.

Mike, thanks for the info.
We have Tow'd pieces scattered all over the garage!

Wazabug, If you're looking to replace those long U-bolts, that hold the rear torsion assembly in place. I found company in Plattsburgh, NY to make them for me. They felt the original 3/8 bolts are undersized, and insisted on making them 9/16 for strength. There was no minimum order, and they kept my dimensions on file to make additional pieces in the future. They are Plattsburgh Spring, Inc. 1-877-448-2448 or UBoltsDirect.com I believe the price was about 13.00 a piece with nuts and washers. If you do need to order, they can find dimensions in my order, under OBX BUGGIES.



Pic of the stock bolt off my wife's tow'd and the replacement.

Welcome to the Tow'd madness! Just finished our Towd build this past October and going to be working on a second one.

I have a chance to pickup a 002 trans reasonably. Is this an easy install in the Tow'd chassis? I understand I'll have to change axles and CV's. I am more concerned with the shift rod and the clearance for the fuel tank.
Thanks

In Lori Ann's I raised the tank about an inch because of the same concern, we also used the shifter piece that is used in a bug when converting to a bus trans(see link below). I also have a set of axles with type 2 cv's on 1 side and type 1 on the other that fit stock trailing arms, I will be pulling them out of Lori Ann's towd when I change hers to all type 2's, you can have the axles, just pay for shipping or if you can wait until Manx in the Middle I'll bring them there.

http://www.dansperformanceparts.com/off ... ype-2.html

Mike, thanks for the info.
I'm thinking I'm going to go with 0" x 1" or 2" longer arms. So I'll likely be upgrading the axles as well. I'd like to get as much suspension travel as I can and still keep the top of the shocks attached to the frame rather than moving them outside the body and attaching them to the roll bar.

Does anybody have any experience with removing the torsion bars and going with some FOA coilover shocks?

Or,

Can I keep the torsion bar and use raise plates to get ground clearance combined with longer trailing arms to get the increased travel I'm looking for?

I want to keep the Tow'dster rear fenders without modifiying them, however, I'm trying to get as much suspension travel as I can.

The fenders attach to body I think you need to move torsion tube forward if you got +2 . Then you need to worryou about engine hitting rear of body. If it was me I would set components under body and make a frame. Metal is the cheapest mod. you can do.

After HOURS of research I've decided to get the tape measure out and make sure that I can fit the 2"x2" rear trailing arms without modifying the rear fenders.
The next decision will be whether or not I'm going to eliminate the torsion bars and go with coilover shocks, or keep the torsion bars and go with a traditional shock.......

Dave you're really gonna want to keep an eye on upper shock mounting locations, there really isn't much of an option without cutting the body, the upper mount needs to be resolved so you know where to think about the lower shock mount, as we already found out with Lori Ann's IRS type 1 set up, the shock hangs low and is vulnerable to hitting a rock.

Thanks Mike.
That stock lower shock mount is exactly why I am looking at new rear trailing arms!
It looks like I could shorten the top mount in its original location by 1" or so. I need to get the current suspension in a position where I can freely cycle it and start measuring everything, then compare my measurements with shock dimensions.
I'm not looking for huge travel, I just want to improve upon what is there and keep the exterior looking original.