Wiring questions

tgodber · Post by **tgodber** » Sat Oct 01, 2005 3:49 am

1: What is the reason for not using a fuse for the ignition power? A post on dune-buggy.com said that it is not usually fused. A wire diagram for starting circuit shows both options. I am thinking that I would run power to the ignition and then to a fuse block for items where the power will be keyed such as wipers and radio. Another fuse block will be powered by a direct line from battery. 2: What size of fuse blocks would you reccommend? Are two 6-fuse blocks adequate or do I need more. I would like to have extra fuses available. 3: Will 10 guage wire supplying power be large enough? I am sure that this has been discussed before but the search did not come up with the answers. Thanks for your help.

allen pierce · Post by **allen pierce** » Sat Oct 01, 2005 6:06 am

Well, I've been over zealous lately, but that won't stop me... Have you looked at this -> Wire your buggy in the ManxClub Garage. Perhaps a good place to start?

newmanx59 · Post by **newmanx59** » Sat Oct 01, 2005 12:47 pm

1: What is the reason for not using a fuse for the ignition power? A post on dune-buggy.com said that it is not usually fused. A wire diagram for starting circuit shows both options. People are afraid the ignition fuse will blow at an inopportune moment possibly putting them in harms way. I do run a fuse in the ignition circuit and haven't had a problem. I am thinking that I would run power to the ignition and then to a fuse block for items where the power will be keyed such as wipers and radio. Another fuse block will be powered by a direct line from battery. I wire all my buggys so that nothing can be turned on when the key is off. I don't want to come out of the grocery store to find a dead battery because some clown turned on my headlights. 2: What size of fuse blocks would you reccommend? Are two 6-fuse blocks adequate or do I need more. I would like to have extra fuses available. I think the largest VW Bug fusebox only had 11 fuses. I could be mistaken. 3: Will 10 guage wire supplying power be large enough? 10 gauge will work fine but I like and use 8 gauge. I also like the use of relays for the headlights, horn, etc. it save the ignition switch. Checkout http://www.waytekwire.com for wire, terminals, fuse panels, etc. They have great prices and quality parts.

shaihulud · Post by **shaihulud** » Sat Oct 01, 2005 12:48 pm

Tim. When I wired my buggy I stripped all of the wiring out of two wrecked cars. That gave me enough fuse capacity (about 12) to do everything that I wanted to do. Everything was wired in using plugs for easy removal. I fitted two busbars under the dash for extra connections. One permanently live and the other through the ignition. I then only needed to plug a wire in and then route it through an unused fuse. I had enough relays to all sorts of things. I ran extra wires to the rear of the car, just in case I needed them. I wired in a circuit for flat towing to be plugged into the towing car. I had grommets of all sorts. The fuse box was hinged to fall down under the passengers side for easy access. I put in the wires for a tow bar which were used later to fit one. What I am saying is while you are at it put in all sorts of things that will be handy in the future. Remember that most fusing systems put two things through the same fuse. For example, say, the horn and the stop lights together, then if the horn doesn't work, you know that the stop lights don't either. Have fun, be patient, and creative and look at lots of car wiring diagrams for ideas. Richard.

manxdavid · Post by **manxdavid** » Sat Oct 01, 2005 3:00 pm

This is my favorite wiring pic.... :rock:

....Kinda says it all!!!LOL

5150bossman · Post by **5150bossman** » Sat Oct 01, 2005 4:47 pm

I have the coil wire fused. If need be, I can pull the fuse and the car won't run (anti-theft). Never had an issue of blowing the coil fuse, but then again, I'm only running a mostly stock 1776 motor. I also run a 12-curcuit Painless Wiring fuse block. It has an always on side, and a side that is switched with the ignition for accessories. The benifit it that it uses the GM style ATO fuses which are easily found at any auto parts store or 7-11. The down side is that it runs about $90.00. Well worth the price in my opinion though. :2cents:

newmanx59 · Post by **newmanx59** » Sat Oct 01, 2005 8:40 pm

Here is a couple picture of my drop down fuse panel. The first pic is with the panel in the up position the second pic is of the panel in the down position. The fuse panel along with 10 fuses thet are all powered from one lead, has a buss on it for the ground wires. It's about $12.00 from Waytek.

joemama · Post by **joemama** » Tue Oct 04, 2005 12:43 am

There are some things best left unswitched, power always on. Parking lights, emergency flashers, and also whip antenna light. My headlights are also able to be turned on without the key being on. You never know when you might need to use any of the above to let people know where you are.

tgodber · Post by **tgodber** » Wed Oct 05, 2005 3:20 am

I went shopping for supplies today. I bought a 10 position fuse box for hot wires from battery and a 6 position box for switched circuits from ignition. I also bought another buss bar for the rear ground wires and I'll connect it to the front buss bar. I bought various connectors and wire the other day. Since I am having two separate fuse boxes I felt that 10 guage supply wire was adequate. I have more hood and dash support work to do before starting wiring but I'm getting ready for it. I also decided to go for LED turn lights in stainless cups for the rear instead of the VW lights. I have two VW rear lights that I won't need so maybe I can recoup some of the $70 + tax cost for the LEDs. The LEDs are from Grote. Manxdavid I like your picture. newmanx59 awesome wiring job.