Manx Club

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2016 5:56 am 
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Location: Saint Albans, WV
Because the body has a 3 inch lift, the front bumper needs to be raised 3 inches to look in proper proportion once done. So a custom mount was made to raise the bumper.

1/4 inch thick X 2 inch wide steel strapping was used and welded to the beam for a super solid mount. The small angle iron was used to hold the mount flush with the beam tubes while tack welding in place.

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The bumper brackets supplied are cut curved to direct weld to the beam. They were cut flat to weld to the new mount bracket, and tacked in place.

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Then finish welded on both sides.

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Since the new fuel tank will be holding 15 gallon of fuel, a good support needs to be fitted underneath the front to not only support the weight, but also tie the fuel tank mount into for a very solid hold.

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Once tacked in place, it will be removed for final welding and the extra material trimmed off foe a neat appearance.

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The fuel tank does not have a standard lip to grab ahold of to hold down like a stock tank. So a strap was made to hold the tank in place. On final install, self-adhesive foam tape will be used to seal the tank to the body and also between the strap and tank to help stop any chatter/rattling while driving.

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And the fuel system is finished. Onto a custom steering column support.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2016 4:38 pm 
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Location: Southern Illinois
Fantastic work, Joe! I was wondering if you had considered felt under the tank straps or have they been spot welded to the tank?

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2016 4:47 pm 
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Location: Southern California
He's going to line everything with "self adhesive foam tape".

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Tow'd (Hers)
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Manxter Dual Sport #30 Baja Edition #2 (Ours)

2013 Sea to Sea Safari
2014 Manx Baja Tour
2015 NORRA 1000
2015 Shuffle to Buffalo
2015 SoCal cruise to Topaz II
2016 West Coast to No Coast-No Coast to Topaz-Topaz to SoCal
2017 NORRA 1000
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2016 4:59 pm 
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Location: Saint Albans, WV
RedBaronofRedBud wrote:
Fantastic work, Joe! I was wondering if you had considered felt under the tank straps or have they been spot welded to the tank?


I wish I had the ability to weld aluminum, and I would have just welded tabs to bolt the tank down with. That would be a good option from TKM now that they are back making thee tanks again. But, it is steel strapping on the tank. And yes, the strap will have thin foam tape between it and the tank to lesson dissimilar metal corrosion and rattling.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2016 5:12 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 01, 1970 1:00 am
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Location: Kingsland, GA
Awesome work! As usual, I'm anxious for the next chapter to be performed and written!

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(Loretta) Manx # M2940D910E on customized 1970 chassis that has been "Wheelerized" by Joescoolcustoms
(Scarlett) Manx Resorter #12 (R0012B931S) on 1969 chassis.
(Gunny) Manx 2 # A0202A035E
(Bruiser) Tow'd # TF327D953N
(Unnamed) Manx 2 (Body Only) #1339
(Unnamed) Manx 2 (Body Only) (no serial number tag)
Club Member # 4436

Loretta: http://www.manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic ... t=3365Manx
Scarlett: viewtopic.php?f=82&t=3745&p=24983#p24983


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 20, 2016 2:17 am 
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Location: Colorado Springs, CO
joescoolcustoms wrote:
I did some basic trial fitting of the radiator...

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Hanging the radiator off the rear, eh? I'm sure it'll turn out beautiful, but did you think about fitting a longer/shorter radiator above the trans instead of the square? Going to be quite a bit hanging off the rear.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 20, 2016 4:57 am 
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Location: Saint Albans, WV
The Ecotec weighs right at 20 pounds more than a VW engine. So, the real big item weight wise is the aluminum radiator that weighs about another 20 pounds, and then 3 gallon of coolant at 8.5 pounds per gallon. Not too bad. And the flow characteristics are much better in one properly sized radiator without size restrictions under the body.

Scott's Ecotec Manx.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2016 9:48 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 01, 1970 1:00 am
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Location: Kingsland, GA
What hard top is that on his Manx?

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(Loretta) Manx # M2940D910E on customized 1970 chassis that has been "Wheelerized" by Joescoolcustoms
(Scarlett) Manx Resorter #12 (R0012B931S) on 1969 chassis.
(Gunny) Manx 2 # A0202A035E
(Bruiser) Tow'd # TF327D953N
(Unnamed) Manx 2 (Body Only) #1339
(Unnamed) Manx 2 (Body Only) (no serial number tag)
Club Member # 4436

Loretta: http://www.manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic ... t=3365Manx
Scarlett: viewtopic.php?f=82&t=3745&p=24983#p24983


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2016 9:56 pm 
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Location: Saint Albans, WV
abgiles wrote:
What hard top is that on his Manx?



Not sure Brian. Here is Scott's thread on his Fun Hog, may tell what it is. I love the look of it.

http://www.manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=645


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2016 5:09 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 01, 1970 1:00 am
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Location: Kingsland, GA
joescoolcustoms wrote:
abgiles wrote:
What hard top is that on his Manx?



Not sure Brian. Here is Scott's thread on his Fun Hog, may tell what it is. I love the look of it.

http://www.manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=645


I do as well. Going to take a look at this one that is similar this weekend. He's willing to separate the chassis from the body, but not sure if just the hard top. All depends on the width of the top, as the last one I got was too wide.

3720

Can't wait to see how this ecotech build goes. Maybe you could do a swap in Loretta for me? Lol. Just kidding. I know you're booked for the next few years.

_________________
(Loretta) Manx # M2940D910E on customized 1970 chassis that has been "Wheelerized" by Joescoolcustoms
(Scarlett) Manx Resorter #12 (R0012B931S) on 1969 chassis.
(Gunny) Manx 2 # A0202A035E
(Bruiser) Tow'd # TF327D953N
(Unnamed) Manx 2 (Body Only) #1339
(Unnamed) Manx 2 (Body Only) (no serial number tag)
Club Member # 4436

Loretta: http://www.manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic ... t=3365Manx
Scarlett: viewtopic.php?f=82&t=3745&p=24983#p24983


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2016 4:55 am 
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Location: Southern California
Is the gas tank vented through the cap or is a vent tube needed to be added?

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Mike Dario
So-Cal
Manx Club #957
Manx Club Director-Vice President, Treasurer

Tow'd (Hers)
Manxvair (His)
Manxter Dual Sport #30 Baja Edition #2 (Ours)

2013 Sea to Sea Safari
2014 Manx Baja Tour
2015 NORRA 1000
2015 Shuffle to Buffalo
2015 SoCal cruise to Topaz II
2016 West Coast to No Coast-No Coast to Topaz-Topaz to SoCal
2017 NORRA 1000
2018 NORRA 1000


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2016 5:18 am 
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Location: Saint Albans, WV
manxvair wrote:
Is the gas tank vented through the cap or is a vent tube needed to be added?


Separate vent. I need to fab up a tube style vent. You can see the tap at the top rear, just to the pass-side of the fill cap.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2016 7:59 am 
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Location: Sequim WA
Nice build fun to watch. I am thinking of doing a FWD Honda K24 midengine Manx. You gave me some good ideas. You are a great builder


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 13, 2016 5:55 am 
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Location: Saint Albans, WV
JJLangan wrote:
Nice build fun to watch. I am thinking of doing a FWD Honda K24 midengine Manx. You gave me some good ideas. You are a great builder


Thank you for the nice compliment! I very much enjoy working on these old hotrods.

I have made considerable progress. Rear Bumper is completed, fab work done, steering column mount fabbed, windshield mounted, roll bar mounted, body pulled back off and paint process started.

For the rear bumper, the hardest part was deciding on how to do it. Getting that first idea to flow, make sure Roy will be able to work on it later, not beat itself to death or have future items get in the way.

I started out with making the top hoop, use the overhead hoist and a jack to get stuff into place for mock up.

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Next to make the top and bottom bumper mounts. What has worked for my over the years is to sleeve the inside of the 1 5/8" 0.120 wall DOM tubing for the bumper to slide over. Then drill it for a quick release pin. I have actually picked the rear of my personal buggy up off the ground to a 45* angle with my bumper mounted this way, hauled 300 pounds on the hitch and David has pulled a trailer across the US with his. Very strong.

To center the sleeve, I wrap the inner tube with masking tape on the end up inside and right where it come out of the bigger tube. This holds it tight for welding. I prep the larger tube for rosette style welds by drilling it with 1/2" holes.

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Before welding anything, I mark the center of everything. Well kind of. Every body I have had my hands on has been different. So it is a compromise to center the best possible with everything. Since the suspension is straight, the rest is a balance for looks. Still strong, and the slight mis alignment is not noticeable to the eye without a string to show it may be off 1/4 inch here or there.

In this picture, you can see the bumper has to be pushed a little to the D-Side to make the fit up underneath clear the body straight on the chassis.

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So, I felt the radiator would benefit from some rear protection, just in case. License plate frame has LED light built in, and plenty space for rearward moving air to come around it. When everything is painted and goes together for the final time, rubber will be installed in all points where the radiator sits/captured in the mounts. Never solid mount a radiator, the vibration will make the fragile unit crack, quickly.

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Since the transaxle is solid mounted, the rear bumper can benefit by attaching mounts to it up to the engine for additional support. One mount per side. There is a 1/2 inch spacer between the solid mount and engine to provide a easy way to install and remove the bumper and not have to slide it dead on.

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A sharp eye will have spotted the exhaust pointing directly at the radiator. This could be bad. The muffler was cut odd, and moved down and out, with a slight downward tilt to clear everything.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 13, 2016 6:13 am 
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Location: Saint Albans, WV
To keep moving along, the roll bar needed to be mounted. First the windshield needs mounted so the 39 or 41 inches from leading edge of the windshield to center of roll bar can be established. Many have asked at what angle is the windshield mounted. I have read and heard 30 * back from Vertical. In my experience, if the split in the hood-to-dash line is used to center the mounting bolts, it comes out to be 28 *. Still looks good.

So, this one is mounted at 39 inches from leading edge to center of roll cage tubing.

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Getting the windshield mounted also leads to getting the steering column mount in place. Since the body has a 3 inch lift built in, it allows for a permanent steering column mount that will hold the steering column in place, while the hood is removed. Nice not to have to pull the column out when the hood comes off.

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The BF Meyers Roll Bar comes with bolts and the lower bracket to take the bottom bolt through the body and tie it into the rear torsion housing mount providing a very secure bottom mount. Since this chassis is 3 inches longer, and 3 inches taller, the bracket did not fit. An extension from the rear shock tower was extended forward to pick up that bottom bolt and make it a strong mount.

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