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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2015 5:22 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 05, 2010 5:00 am
Posts: 315
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Location: Wilmington, NC
JJLangan wrote:
Nice job
Were can I buy that carb linkage?


I'll have to verify (find my hidden receipts) which exact linkage prod code I got, but it is made by CSP. I think it's this one:
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp ... D941%2D110

I also bought two different return springs since I wasn't sure which one I needed:
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp ... 881%2D100A
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp ... D881%2D100

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Bud Zeller
Wilmington, NC
Member Number - 2475
Member of the Manx Club's Long Haul League - 2015
Event Coordinator - Manx On The Banx 2017 - http://www.manxonthebanx.com
Manx Club Board of Directors
Team Member NORRA Mexican 1000 2018 - Bad News Racing - Because bad news travels fast.
'68 Meyers Manx - M1996F826S
'66 VW Kombi Bus
'73 VW Thing


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2015 5:37 pm 
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Location: Saint Albans, WV
Sounds good!

Looking forward to hear how well it performs. You may need to increase the jets in the carbs due to engine size increase.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2015 7:37 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 16, 2015 3:30 am
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Location: Sequim WA
Thanks for the info Good luck


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2015 9:01 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 208
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Location: Kingsland, GA
JJLangan wrote:
Nice job
Were can I buy that carb linkage?


I bought mine like that at a local show for about $40, but it's a Scat Linkage. You can buy them directly from SCATVW here:

http://www.scatvw.com/view.php?pn=30050

_________________
(Loretta) Manx # M2940D910E on customized 1970 chassis that has been "Wheelerized" by Joescoolcustoms
(Scarlett) Manx Resorter #12 (R0012B931S) on 1969 chassis.
(Gunny) Manx 2 # A0202A035E
(Bruiser) Tow'd # TF327D953N
(Unnamed) Manx 2 (Body Only) #1339
(Unnamed) Manx 2 (Body Only) (no serial number tag)
Club Member # 4436

Loretta: http://www.manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic ... t=3365Manx
Scarlett: viewtopic.php?f=82&t=3745&p=24983#p24983


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 1:29 pm 
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Location: Wilmington, NC
The day has finally arrived that I was able to officially drive our buggy (at least to work). After the body/chassis make-over our buggy spent some time at the Martinez's garage to have it's new motor installed. As expected there were a few bumps associated with this final step: needed to replace the left and right rear axle seals and the main shaft seal in the trans. A few very minor electrical gremlins (e.g. horn blew when putting on the right turn signal - people thought I was just being friendly :lol: ) and fixing a couple of squeaks (replaced one bearing in the alternator and greased the other). Joe Wheeler, you were correct the "grinding" noise I heard when making right turns was the right rear axle bearing - now replaced.

I have a few more items on my checklist to finish but for the most part, she's a driver now.

A big thank you to Vince Simansky, Paul Mabin, Joe Wheeler, David Cash, and Steve & Jake Martinez for helping me finish what I had in my mind's eye.

Here is our first shot out in public (not a very sexy setting - parking lot at work). We have glamour shots coming 8)


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Bud Zeller
Wilmington, NC
Member Number - 2475
Member of the Manx Club's Long Haul League - 2015
Event Coordinator - Manx On The Banx 2017 - http://www.manxonthebanx.com
Manx Club Board of Directors
Team Member NORRA Mexican 1000 2018 - Bad News Racing - Because bad news travels fast.
'68 Meyers Manx - M1996F826S
'66 VW Kombi Bus
'73 VW Thing


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 1:37 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 30, 2010 5:00 am
Posts: 414
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Location: Southern California
Well done, congratulations on overhaul.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Mike Dario
So-Cal
Manx Club #957
Manx Club Director-Vice President, Treasurer

Tow'd (Hers)
Manxvair (His)
Manxter Dual Sport #30 Baja Edition #2 (Ours)

2013 Sea to Sea Safari
2014 Manx Baja Tour
2015 NORRA 1000
2015 Shuffle to Buffalo
2015 SoCal cruise to Topaz II
2016 West Coast to No Coast-No Coast to Topaz-Topaz to SoCal
2017 NORRA 1000
2018 NORRA 1000


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 4:50 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 03, 2013 5:00 am
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Location: Saint Albans, WV
I shall tip my champagne glass, (actually a can of Mt Dew), to a christening of the re-birth of a classic.

Here's to many years and many miles of nothing but smiles! :thumbup:


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 1:05 am 
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wow that came out beautiful I am so jealous . now vince are you ready do one for me .I cant wait to see it in new York congrats bud.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2015 1:53 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 208
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Location: Kingsland, GA
Outstanding!! Nothing to do now except put the miles (and smiles) on!

_________________
(Loretta) Manx # M2940D910E on customized 1970 chassis that has been "Wheelerized" by Joescoolcustoms
(Scarlett) Manx Resorter #12 (R0012B931S) on 1969 chassis.
(Gunny) Manx 2 # A0202A035E
(Bruiser) Tow'd # TF327D953N
(Unnamed) Manx 2 (Body Only) #1339
(Unnamed) Manx 2 (Body Only) (no serial number tag)
Club Member # 4436

Loretta: http://www.manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic ... t=3365Manx
Scarlett: viewtopic.php?f=82&t=3745&p=24983#p24983


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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2015 9:07 pm 
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That's one of my favorite buggies, now looking better than ever!


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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2015 2:44 am 
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Joined: Mon Apr 05, 2010 5:00 am
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Location: Wilmington, NC
andygere wrote:
That's one of my favorite buggies, now looking better than ever!


Andy, thank you for the comment. Nice to know others have similar tastes to your own. By the way, I really like your buggy with some unique styling. Welcome.

_________________
Bud Zeller
Wilmington, NC
Member Number - 2475
Member of the Manx Club's Long Haul League - 2015
Event Coordinator - Manx On The Banx 2017 - http://www.manxonthebanx.com
Manx Club Board of Directors
Team Member NORRA Mexican 1000 2018 - Bad News Racing - Because bad news travels fast.
'68 Meyers Manx - M1996F826S
'66 VW Kombi Bus
'73 VW Thing


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 11, 2016 3:11 am 
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Location: Saint Albans, WV
I think some one got bitten by the Long Haul League, the Iron Buggy Award and all the recent cross country traveling.

Bud sent me his fuel tank and a pile of photos, and I agreed to modify his fuel tank for a larger volume and to get almost 100% usage of the capacity out of it.

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Since it is always best to work on a clean slate, I sand blasted the fuel tank to white metal. Not only does it expose any rust, (this tank had no external rust), it also allows for good welding surfaces.

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Several minute modifications were made to get all the fuel that can be gotten.

One modification is to change how the filler neck is mounted. If the filler neck extends into the tank, the air trapped above the bottom of the neck is wasted fuel storage space. Since Bud's buggy has been restored last year, it was very important to keep the filler neck in the exact same spot that will re-match in the hood opening. To do this, several precise measurements were needed to re-locate it after the modification. I set up a jig on a buggy so it could be taken off after the initial measurement was taken, then replaced in the exact same spot to aid in the filler neck location.

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Once the neck position and angle was established, the neck was cut out.

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A flat plate of 14 gauges steel was then welded over the hole in the tank. The locating jig was replaced, and the cleaned up neck measured for how much needed to be trimmed off to surface mount it.

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The neck was shortened the proper amount, located, outlined, and then the hole cut before welding the neck on. Also, Bud stated that sometimes he would get a fuel smell inside to cabin of the buggy. So I installed a vent port into the neck. The port is brake line tubing sanded to bare metal, the neck sanded to bare metal, then the two bonded with Silver Solder. (True high content Silver based solder, not plumbing solder. Silver solder is a lot stronger than brazing) Then a small barb was crimped into the end to help hold a hose on.

Then the neck was welded in place while using the locating jig for exact placement.

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This takes care of the top of the tank modifications and gets that last little bit of fuel leaving almost zero head space wasted. Next is the bottom.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 11, 2016 3:39 am 
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Location: Saint Albans, WV
Since the top was modified to get the last drop out of it, it was time to modify the bottom to increase it's capacity.

First I made a crude cardboard template of clearances needed. Tie rods have to move up and down as the suspension travels, pitman arm, stabilizer shock, steering column, tunnel and other items have to be considered.

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Next is a big leap of faith. Either considered as moving on, or screwing up a nice tank. The bottom was cut out.

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Starting to get the replacement pieces cut and fitted. All made out of 14 gauges steel plate.

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Because the internal original surface of the tank has some minor rust and previous coating left on it, it was sandblasted on the inside. Also, the new steel was sand blasted too to remove the protective pickling so a later sealer will adhere to it.

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The bottom completed. The fuel tap is moved to the outside passenger side to the lowest point in the tank. When empty, about ony 1/2 pint of fuel will remain unused.

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The tap from the inside, re-located to the lowest portion of the tank.

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The next step is to chemical clean the inside on the tank, coat with Damon Red Koyte internal sealer compatible with ethanol blended fuels. Then the exterior will be coated with Damon Exterior fuel tank sealer.

Bud will have about 11.2 gallon capacity tank that is 97% to 98% capacity usable. Does not sound like much for all the effort, but consider a normal buggy tilts the fuel tank and about 1 gallon is left in the bottom not usable, and if the fuel filler is located in the front, it cannot be filled to full capacity, and results in about only 7 usable gallons. In my buggy, I have about a 280 mile cruising range with a tank modified similar to this.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 11, 2016 3:53 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 208
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Location: Kingsland, GA
Looks great as usual, and I'm sure Bud has got to be happy to have this modification done. The one you did for me is right about 11 gallons, from my initial filling and topping off.

_________________
(Loretta) Manx # M2940D910E on customized 1970 chassis that has been "Wheelerized" by Joescoolcustoms
(Scarlett) Manx Resorter #12 (R0012B931S) on 1969 chassis.
(Gunny) Manx 2 # A0202A035E
(Bruiser) Tow'd # TF327D953N
(Unnamed) Manx 2 (Body Only) #1339
(Unnamed) Manx 2 (Body Only) (no serial number tag)
Club Member # 4436

Loretta: http://www.manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic ... t=3365Manx
Scarlett: viewtopic.php?f=82&t=3745&p=24983#p24983


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 11, 2016 3:59 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 03, 2013 5:00 am
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Location: Saint Albans, WV
Great Brian, I'm glad you like it!

My next one will be on my Tow'd. Going to shoot for 15 gallon +.

(But I don't know anyone who would want to ride in a Tow'd for 300+ miles without stopping.)


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